Buying a pool table is not much different than buying a car—or any product you want to last for a long time. The closer you look, the more you’ll see which features are important to you and what will fit your lifestyle. And although you can’t test drive a pool table, you can visit a dealer’s showroom to check out the variety of models.

But before you go, it’s important to be a knowledgeable buyer. That’s where this "how to buy a pool table" guide comes in handy. Here you’ll find all you need for making an informed decision.

Do you need a work truck, a family wagon or a luxury car? The same considerations should be made before deciding what pool table to buy. Some tables are made for the constant use of professionals. Others are built with the family budget in mind, yet can still hold up to the abuse kids give to all your furniture. And still other tables are beautifully ornate in design and a real showpiece for any home. But whatever your personal needs or taste, there is a style for you.

LIFESTYLE AND ROOM CONSIDERATIONS

Pool tables are available in a variety of materials, styles and colors. Traditional solid hardwoods can be stained in colors ranging from whitewash to dark mahogany. Contemporary high pressure laminate (FORMICA® and Wilsonart® for example) covered tables come in a spectrum of colors. And all can be covered in the cloth color of your choice. So consider your existing room decor. You may even want to bring a picture of the room or your fabric and carpet samples with you when you shop. Many dealerships have experience helping customers discover the perfect table for them.

Before buying a pool table ask yourself, "Will it fit in our room?" You wouldn’t buy a large SUV and expect it to squeeze into your one-stall garage. Likewise, you’ll want to make sure your table has ample playing room around it. An approximate five-foot perimeter is suggested, so measure your space to ensure a perfect fit. If you’re concerned a large slab of slate won’t fit through your doorway, tables built for the home use three-piece slate. Almost the only time one-piece slate is used is on coin-op tables.

For a pool table to be considered ‘regulation size’ the length of the playfield is twice the width—and most regulation-size pool tables are built in 7’, 8’ and 9’ lengths. No matter which length you choose, be aware that minimum space requirements will change depending on the size of the cue you select.

For specific room sizes, use the following measurements:

Key: Use
[A] for 48" cue
[B] for 52" cue
[C] for 57" cue

• for a 7’ table
[A] allow for an 11’ 6" x 14’ 6" room
[B] allow for a 12’ x 15’ room
[C] allow for a 13’ x 16’ room

• for an 8’ table
[A] allow for a 12’ x 15’ 6" room
[B] allow for a 12’ 6" x 16’ room
[C] allow for a 13’ 6" x 17’ room

• for a 9’ table
[A] allow for a 12’ 6" x 16’ 6" room
[B] allow for a 13’ x 17’ room
[C] allow for a 14’ x 18’ room

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A POOL TABLE

Solid hardwood and veneer.
What’s the difference?
Veneer is a thin layer of solid hardwood bonded to a laminated wood subcore. The advantage is its value. It has the appearance of solid wood without the cost.

Solid hardwoods are heavier, stronger and are better able to withstand stresses and wear common to pool tables. They come with a higher price tag, and can be intricately carved. Compare table weights, as weight reflects the quality, design and materials that went into the construction.

Laminated lumber or dimensional lumber.
Laminated lumber is hardwood stock that is glued with the grain of each piece opposing the other. The result is a single piece of wood that is less susceptible to warping, bending, twisting or splitting due to heat and humidity—unlike dimensional lumber which is less expensive but does not have the strength to hold up over time.

Interlocking frame and slate support.
A better built table has center beams that run the length of the table and interlock with the cross members. This stabilizes the slate and cabinet of the table with substantially greater support, and distributes the weight evenly throughout the table. Cross members are necessary to ensure the best support for each piece of slate. Note that some main beams are purely cosmetic—drop-in vs. full length—offering little or no support to the slate.

Cabinet and leg joinery.
Look for a securing system that ensures an exact cabinet fit. Two examples of the strongest systems are MLD (Machined Locking Dowels) and the more traditional method of building tables (and most fine furniture), with mortise and tenon joinery. Check out how the legs are mounted to the cabinet. Some manufacturers use corner leg joinery made of stamped sheet metal. Using more securing bolts will provide much greater stability.

Details and craftsmanship.
How is the table put together? Is it just stapled and glued together, or is it glued, screwed and bolted for greater strength? Is the table designed with minimal structural support? Tables that last are those that are built to withstand the rigors of years of play.

Get on your back and crawl underneath the table. This is where one of those mechanics’ creepers would come in handy. Look up and notice the slate. Either Brazilian or Italian slate will offer an acceptable playing surface. Italian slate is recognized as the finest playing surface and is used in sanctioned tournament play. High-end tables use slate backed with 3/4" engineered wood. It provides better slate protection and sound absorption.

Take a close look at the wood. Make sure the rails, blinds, cabinet and legs are made using the same type of wood. Some manufacturers use different, cheaper wood components leaving you, for instance, with a table whose legs look different than the cabinet.

On contemporary styled pool tables, look for the use of metal hardware on the cabinet and rail corners vs. plastic. Feel the pockets. Hard plastic can crack with wear. Make sure the pockets are made of supple soft rubber-like plastic.

Rails and cushions
Check out the rails. Look at the width and profile. The use of laminated maple core rails is preferred on pool tables. It minimizes rebound vibration and produces exceptional ball response. Whereas rails with a soft core won’t give you the same fast play.

Ask what technology is being used in the cushion. K66 full profile cushion is the industry standard. The cushion should also be canvas-backed. This helps the rubber adhere the cushion to the wood rail for durability and more accurate and consistent play.

Table finishes and laminates
You’ll want a finish that not only looks great, but offers the best protection against scratches and overall wear and tear. On family/rec room tables look for high pressure laminates like FORMICA® and Wilsonart® on the rails. They are impact resistant and resist burns and scratches. The laminate of the rails should match the vinyl of the cabinet and legs, which are less exposed to direct play.

Hardwood tables—veneer or solid—should be finished to fit your needs. A catalyzed coat offers a smooth, durable finish. However, a UV cured finish, the latest in furniture technology, offers the most durable and long-lasting finish.

Warranty or guarantee
Tables built to last will offer a lifetime guarantee, if installed by authorized personnel. When’s the last time you were offered a lifetime guarantee on anything?